Climbing routes in South Tyrol’s Mountains

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

This via ferrata is a classic in the Dolomites and is framed by rugged walls and towers with magnificent views. The via ferrata is relatively short with difficult Alpine passages that require Alpine experience.

Attention: there are some snowfields. For accessibility, mountain experience and the appropriate equipment are required (good hiking boots, hiking poles and possibly crampons).

A challenging hike with a stunning view of Villnöss/Funes valley, the Geisler mountains and the surrounding Dolomites. The last part beneath the summit consists of a via ferrata on which belaying with a climbing harness is recommended. 

This via ferrata is only suitable for experienced via ferrata climbers who are sure-footed, have a good head for heights and a lot of stamina.

From the Drei Zinnen hut the trail takes towards the “Frankfurter" rock and then enters into the tunnel. At the end of the tunnel the fixed-cable trail takes to the Gamsscharte passage. From there, it goes steeply up to the summit. In the scree around the summit, you have to concentrate on your climbing – there are various places where you could get confused and go wrong. From the summit, returns to the Gamsscharte passage and from there it goes down a few metres in a rocky gully and further on at the wartime trail to the Forgella Paterno/Paternsattel.

The impressive tunnel passages, numerous openings in the rock and an interesting section where you have to crawl, just before the Paternsattel, make this via ferrata extremely exciting and highly recommended, both for its central location in the Sexten Dolomites and for its summit panoramas.

This easy via ferrata, which has a lot of walking terrain between the secured sections (sure-footedness is a must!), is one of the most beautiful in the Dolomites. Along the way from south to north through the Cadini group there are several short counter climbs to be overcome.

Rifugio Lunelli or Passo Monte Croce – Rifugio Berti – Ferrata Zandonella – Croda Rossa peak– Castelliere – Passo Monte Croce or Rifugio Lunelli Description: the first 200 meters of the ferrata with two ladders and fixed rope is very strenuous and exposed. Descent by some exposed passages to the east part is easier. Fantastic rock scenery! The via ferrata is not in good conditions, especially the steel part. Also the distance from one hook to the next hook is too much and there is also danger of falling rocks! Variant: Access trough the Croda Rossa meadows- ¾ way to the Croda Rossa peak- transverse band- “Sentinellascharte”, ca. 200m in descent, on the left is the entrance- ca. 500m saved altitude. Indications: red-white-red with the nr. 101, via ferrata red-green triangles Highlights: the fantastic rock scenery of the Vallon Popera, the steep passages of the ferrata and the panorama from the top. Starting point: Rifugio Lunelli (1568m) – from the Passo Monte Croce towards Padola, before Padola turn right in the Valgrande until the parking place at the rifugio Lunelli. Duration: total 7 ¾ hours, ascent 4 ¾ hours, descent 3 hours Diffrence in altitude: ca. 1400m

Only walkable if the current weather conditions are good. WARNING: The GPX data may differ from reality. For information your contact is the Alpinschule Sexten Drei Zinnen +39 0474 710375 info@alpinschule-dreizinnen.com

Before departure: check the equipment, the weather conditions and the accessibility

The 500 m long climb is perfectly secured with 1000 m of steel cable, is rated at medium difficulty (A - B – in some places B/C) and is suitable for the less strong alpinists or for families with enthusiastic young climbers (14 years and older). An early start, alpine experience and a good overall physical condition is a prerequisite for the ascent of the climbing route. Along the ascent, there is no water and no escape routes. A withdrawal is possible only by down-climbing. The via ferrata is fully secured with a steel cable and no passages have to be dealt with in unsecured terrain or by free climbing. Many steep and difficult sections have been mitigated with steel clamps, which function as steps. Nevertheless, the last part of the via ferrata, the so-called Angel’s edge, presents a very impressive rock passage. The orientation of the via ferrata to the southwest allows for an early ascent of the route, and the climbing season extends well into late autumn (total climbing time: 2-3 hours).

This very worthwhile but difficult via ferrata leads to beautiful, lofty rock passages to the peak. The via ferrata Croda di Cengles/Tschenglser Hochwand can be reached via the via ferrata as well as via the normal route.

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

A demanding mountain tour over the alpine via ferrata dedicated to the mountaineer Günther Messner. The route alternates between passages of exposed trails and passages of via ferrata, on which securing with a climbing harness is recommended. Only for those who are free from giddiness!

Rifugio Auronzo – Rifugio Locatelli – Path of the ladders - Torre di Toblin – return Description: repaired via ferrata with a lot of ladders (17 ladders!) and a wonderful round from the top of the Torre di Toblin. Reachable also from the Val Fiscalina or Val Campo di Dentro. Indications: Access and return red triangles, path nr. 101 and 105 Highlights: the ladders and naturally the view to the Three Peaks (Tre Cime) Starting point: Rif. Auronzo (2320m) Duration: total from the Rif. Auronzo 4 ½ hours, ascent 2 ¾ hours, descent 1 ¾ hours Diffrence of altitude: ca. 300m

Only walkable if the current weather conditions are good. WARNING: The GPX data may differ from reality. For information your contact is the Alpinschule Sexten Drei Zinnen +39 0474 710375 info@alpinschule-dreizinnen.com

Before departure: check the equipment, the weather conditions and the accessibility

Technically not very hard, with some difficult spots. Famous for its beautiful scenery and stunning panoramic views.

Attention: there are some snowfields. For accessibility, mountain experience and the appropriate equipment are required (good hiking boots, hiking poles and possibly crampons).

Beautiful, varied via ferrata in the southern Rosengarten massif with fantastic views of the Dolomites.

Attention: there are some snowfields. For accessibility, mountain experience and the appropriate equipment are required (good hiking boots, hiking poles and possibly crampons).

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

The fixed rope route Roen takes you along the mountain ridge from the Oltradige hut (1,773 m) to the Roen peak (2,116 m). This route features some particularly exposed passages, but is always well  equipped and secured. The route leads through the Dolomite peaks and is characterized by breathtaking  panoramic view. Equipment and helmets can be rent at the Oltradige hut.

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

The starting point of the via ferrata is the Rifugio Auronzo.

The via ferrata who takes to the Torre di Toblin/Toblinger Knoten is short but very steep and exposed ladder sections over the north face of the mountain with a wonderful view of the Three Peaks.

Just behind the Rif. Locatelli/Drei Zinnen hut, the path takes upwards in the direction of the summit. After a few minutes, there is the road sign which leads to the ’Dolomitenfreunde’ climbing trail. There are no major problems, even if the path seems a bit adventurous at times. To reach the summit there are 140 metres of hanging steel ladders (about 17 of them). Some of the highlights are a wide chimney, where you have to change from one side to the other (Zwergentod!) and a crossing on slippery, bent hooks in the steep wall. For the descend you have to take the Feldkurat Hosp trail at the other side of the mountain.

Short, very varied and completely secured with a view of Val di Fassa. 

The Sass Rigais is the main summit of the Geisler and with its 3025 m an absolute must for anyone who wants to conquer the pale mountains. Sure-footedness, head for heights, experience in the mountains and the use of a climbing harness are required. 

An almost vertical chimney makes the beginning of the via ferrata found 3.8 km south of Margreid. This is followed by rock passageways with brackets, wire ropes and iron ladders. A partially exposed hiking trail leads through scrub forest to the last rock passage (summit book). Then follows a short secured route, until the trail merges into a forest path that leads to the first houses of Unterfennberg. After approx. 300 meters on a paved road, a forest path branches off to the left - marking 3 -. On this you reach the meadow and lake of Unterfennberg (1047 m), where there are two restaurants.

 There are two options for the way back: on the "normal way" (signpost 3) to Margreid and from there either by taxi - taxi Boccher Tel. +39 3356142064 - or on foot about ¾ hour to the starting point. Or from Unterfennberg south following the mark 502 B to Aichholz (Roverè della Luna). From the center on asphalt in a northerly direction about 2 km to your starting point.

 Tip: Do not start too late; the rock walls heat up very fast!

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

Ideal for beginners and children, the Trafoi via ferrata features a short ascent and descent. Thrill-seekers can soar right up to the entrance via the Flying Fox.

Meadows of the Croda Rossa – Costoni Croda Rossa - Croda Rossa Peak– Castelliere – Meadows of the Croda Rossa Description: an easy via ferrata with a few exposed places, all the path is good secured. The most part of the via ferrata is to hike and you have wonderful views. You can combine this via ferrata with the Strada degli Alpini (nr. 3) and/or the Ferrata Zandonella (nr. 2). Indications: red-white-red with the nr. 100, via ferrata red triangles, return to the Castelliere with nr. 15B Highlights: panorama from the Croda Rossa peak to the peak of the Tre Scarperi, Croda dei Toni, Cima Undici, Monte Popera Starting point: Meadows of the Croda Rossa (1914m). Duration: total 5 ¾ hours, ascent 3 ½ hours, descent 2 ¼ hours Diffrence of altitude: ca. 1000m

Only walkable if the current weather conditions are good. WARNING: The GPX data may differ from reality. For information your contact is the Alpinschule Sexten Drei Zinnen +39 0474 710375 info@alpinschule-dreizinnen.com

Before departure: check the equipment, the weather conditions and the accessibility

The Mesules is legendary: it is one of the oldest via ferratas in the Dolomites (1912) as well
as one of the most demanding in the area.

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!