Klimroutes in de bergen van Zuid-Tirol

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

The Alpinisteig is a well-maintained mountain climbing trail dating from the First World War which shows just how well constructed these former military trails were. The section between the Elfer- and Sentinellascharte gaps is very icy even in summer, so crampons, pickaxes and ropes are essential.
Starting point: Zsigmondyhütte mountain hut
Map/literature: Tabacco no. 010

Only walkable if the current weather conditions are good. WARNING: The GPX data may differ from reality.

before departure: check the equipment, the weather conditions and the accessibility

From the Molignon Pass/Grasleitenpass, the road up to the left leads to the Rosengarten Antermoia/Kesselkogel.

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

This via ferrata is only suitable for experienced via ferrata climbers who are sure-footed, have a good head for heights and a lot of stamina.

From the Drei Zinnen hut the trail takes towards the “Frankfurter" rock and then enters into the tunnel. At the end of the tunnel the fixed-cable trail takes to the Gamsscharte passage. From there, it goes steeply up to the summit. In the scree around the summit, you have to concentrate on your climbing – there are various places where you could get confused and go wrong. From the summit, returns to the Gamsscharte passage and from there it goes down a few metres in a rocky gully and further on at the wartime trail to the Forgella Paterno/Paternsattel.

The impressive tunnel passages, numerous openings in the rock and an interesting section where you have to crawl, just before the Paternsattel, make this via ferrata extremely exciting and highly recommended, both for its central location in the Sexten Dolomites and for its summit panoramas.

From the festival place the via Molino up, to the forest road. The wood sign “Gummererhof” points us the direction. Starting from the “Gummerhof” moving way nr. 10 to the steep “Weiße Rissen” and the “Kleinen Göller” (water place), left up to the marking T from Termeno, leads into our moving way. Through seal coniferous forest, way nr. 523, further, past at the hunter hut, up to the waterfall, then 20 min. laborious rise to the “Rifugio Oltradige – Überetscher Hütte” (mountain inn).

To reach the peak of Roen from the „Überetscher Hütte“ there exist two variants:
1) for those who are ambitious and doesn’t suffer from vertigo: via ferrata (marking 523), to the peak of Roen (2116m above sea level), then down through meadows (marking 500) to the mountain pasture of Roen, and again to the „Überetscher Hütte“.
2) The marking 10/560 in the northward direction until the mountain pasture of Roen and over the trail (marking 500) to the Roen. The way back to the Passo della Mendola or descend through the „Tauris“ (marking 10A) direct to Tramin.

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

Rifugio Auronzo – Rifugio Locatelli – Path of the ladders - Torre di Toblin – return Description: repaired via ferrata with a lot of ladders (17 ladders!) and a wonderful round from the top of the Torre di Toblin. Reachable also from the Val Fiscalina or Val Campo di Dentro. Indications: Access and return red triangles, path nr. 101 and 105 Highlights: the ladders and naturally the view to the Three Peaks (Tre Cime) Starting point: Rif. Auronzo (2320m) Duration: total from the Rif. Auronzo 4 ½ hours, ascent 2 ¾ hours, descent 1 ¾ hours Diffrence of altitude: ca. 300m

Only walkable if the current weather conditions are good. WARNING: The GPX data may differ from reality. For information your contact is the Alpinschule Sexten Drei Zinnen +39 0474 710375 info@alpinschule-dreizinnen.com

Before departure: check the equipment, the weather conditions and the accessibility

The Vallon Via Ferrata is ideal for those approaching the world of via ferratas with a solid background in high-altitude hiking. The route unfolds in a spectacular alpine setting and is mostly technically easy. Only in the final section, after the characteristic suspension bridge, are there a few more challenging passages with moderate exposure.

From the summit, a breathtaking view opens up over the Sella Group and its inner valleys, offering a truly unforgettable panorama. The equipment along the route is in excellent condition: in 2024, the entire ferrata was completely renovated, now ensuring safety and comfort for all who choose to climb it.

The outstandingly beautiful Via Ferrata Santner is secured with steel ropes, iron hooks and ladders, it leads you through small gullies and narrow passes, the most challenging of which is the “Ice Gully”, a small gully which is often covered in hard-packed snow even in August. Due to risk of landslides, this route should only be climbed uphill and not downhill. After you leave the Ferrata at the Santnerpass mountain hut, the trail goes on to the refuge Gartlhütte Hut through the valley of Vajolettal and the Tschagerjoch back to the Kölnerhütte Hut.

The Col Rosá via ferrata is varied, very steep in short sections and also exposed, but consistently on good rock.
It is especially beautiful in autumn, when the colored deciduous trees round off the picture.

The challenging via ferrata has at one point grade D with a protruding stretch. The whole via ferrata is secured by a very taut, thick rope and anchors placed at short gaps.

This easy via ferrata, which has a lot of walking terrain between the secured sections (sure-footedness is a must!), is one of the most beautiful in the Dolomites. Along the way from south to north through the Cadini group there are several short counter climbs to be overcome.

This Via Ferrata has truely earned the name "Avventura"! Three-rope bridge, Burmabridge, plank bridge or chimes - these are just a few elements that await you on the new Via Ferrata at Speikboden! Beautifully laid out, with many steps and final summit cross, the trail offers a breathtaking view through the Ahrntal valley.

The wonderful adventure Via Ferrata with difficulty B rounds off the wide climbing offer at Speikboden, along with the Via Ferrata Speikboden (B/C) and the Via Ferrata Kids (A).

The starting point is at the Station Speikboden Alm at 2.000m, which can be reached by cablecar. After a 30-minute hike on the forest road in direction to Luttach, you reach the entrance of the Via Ferrata Avventura. A total of 10 sections have to be climbed before reaching the summit cross of the mountain "Kleiner Nock". The tour is designed as a circular route, the return path is on the hiking trail no. 18a, back to the starting point.

Tour details

• Difficulty: B (moderately difficult), min. age 12 years
• Start/finish point: Station Speikboden Alm at 2.000m, reachable by cablecar Speikboden
• Entrance: From the station Speikboden Alm via the forest path A in direction to Luttach, 20 min
• Ascesa: 350 m in altitude, 3 h
• Return path to the station Speikboden Alm: path no. 18a, 1 h
• Time needed in total: min. 3 h 30 min
• Last descent with the cablecar Speikboden: 5:00 pm (in august: 6:00 pm)

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

The via ferrata climbs over the rocky slopes and exposed grassy hills of Lampskopf and Gogelberg to the base of the Pflerscher Tribulaun. It is perfect for climbers who appreciate a combination of nature enjoyment and easy climbing. However, the ascent is physically demanding. Due to the southern exposure, the tour is very sweaty (bring drinks). On the other hand, after rainy days, it is advisable to wait—there is a high risk of slipping!

Start: Parking lot at the bridge after Hinterstein (1380m). From the easternmost farmhouse (signpost for via ferrata), the trail winds uphill to the start of the steel cable (45min). The climb to Lampskopf (1995m; 1.5 hours; approx. 400m elevation) is varied. The ascent continues "via ferrata-free" over steep meadows to Gogelberg (2276m), where another steel cable awaits in the summit area. Shortly after the summit, you will join trail no. 7/32A, which leads you to the Tribulaunhütte (2368m, 1.5 hours from Lampskopf). Descent via the hut approach, trail no. 8 in approx. 2 hours.

Difficulty: A to B; short sections C;
Length: Total ascent 1000m, of which 400m + 100m via ferrata
Time: 3.5 - 4 hours.

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

Rifugio Lunelli or Passo Monte Croce – Rifugio Berti – Ferrata Zandonella – Croda Rossa peak– Castelliere – Passo Monte Croce or Rifugio Lunelli Description: the first 200 meters of the ferrata with two ladders and fixed rope is very strenuous and exposed. Descent by some exposed passages to the east part is easier. Fantastic rock scenery! The via ferrata is not in good conditions, especially the steel part. Also the distance from one hook to the next hook is too much and there is also danger of falling rocks! Variant: Access trough the Croda Rossa meadows- ¾ way to the Croda Rossa peak- transverse band- “Sentinellascharte”, ca. 200m in descent, on the left is the entrance- ca. 500m saved altitude. Indications: red-white-red with the nr. 101, via ferrata red-green triangles Highlights: the fantastic rock scenery of the Vallon Popera, the steep passages of the ferrata and the panorama from the top. Starting point: Rifugio Lunelli (1568m) – from the Passo Monte Croce towards Padola, before Padola turn right in the Valgrande until the parking place at the rifugio Lunelli. Duration: total 7 ¾ hours, ascent 4 ¾ hours, descent 3 hours Diffrence in altitude: ca. 1400m

Only walkable if the current weather conditions are good. WARNING: The GPX data may differ from reality. For information your contact is the Alpinschule Sexten Drei Zinnen +39 0474 710375 info@alpinschule-dreizinnen.com

Before departure: check the equipment, the weather conditions and the accessibility

The Mesules is legendary: it is one of the oldest via ferratas in the Dolomites (1912) as well
as one of the most demanding in the area.

Short, not particulary difficult climbing path with long rising and falling section in an isolated area. Good orientation skills required. From the car park directly at the lake along the road to the “Riedlhof”, then on the path no. 20 to “Alpe di Pra della Vacca/Kühwiesenhütte” and continue on the path no. 61 and the climbing path until the peak of “Cima dei Colli Alti/Hochalpenkopf”. Walking time: 6 hours Challenge: ** (moderate difficulty)

The Giuseppe Olivieri via ferrata to Punta Anna leads steeply up the southern edge of the Tofana, in the middle of the Dolomites around Cortina.

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

From the passo Monte Croce 1.636m

450 m – 1,5 hrs

From the passo, take path no. 124 southwards until you reach Forcella Plan della Biscia (1,942 m) next to Cima Colesei. From there you continue along the old and wide road from the war. A few hundred meters after a prominent curve, you will find a sign and a small stone man. From there you turn left (2.010m) to arrive to the attack of the via ferrata. This climb is not yet well trodden on, but is marked with red dots. It is advisable to wear a helmet in advance, as in the last section you are just below the via ferrata and therefore exposed to a greater risk of falling rocks.

From the Lunelli hut 1.568m

510 m – 1,5 hrs

From the hut you climb up to the Forcella Plan della Biscia (1,942 m) via path no. 171 or alternatively via the wide path no. 155. From there you continue along the old and wide road from the war. A few hundred meters after a prominent curve, you will find a sign and a small stone man. From there you turn left (2.010m) to arrive to the attack of the via ferrata. This climb is not yet well trodden on, but is marked with red dots. It is advisable to wear a helmet in advance, as in the last section you are just below the via ferrata and therefore exposed to a greater risk of falling rocks.

2,5 hrs – level C/D

The entrance is located in a small rubble chute in which the steel cable begins. The path starts off in the same demanding way (D) and then follows a steep rock pillar (C/D) with quite homogeneous difficulty.

After the first difficult third, it continues in easier terrain (A/B) until you reach the ridge of the Arzalpenturm after a traverse (C) and a steep step (C/D).

Crossing the ridge, one reaches a small saddle next to the actual summit of the Campanile Colesei. Here, there is a one-way regulation. The actual summit of the tower can only be reached with an additional variant. One climbs down from the saddle along the steel cable south (C). Soon one reaches a junction with the variant. If you like, you can climb the Campanile Colesei (C/D) and get back to this point in one round. From the junction, follow the path downwards to a saddle (C) from where the steel cable on the opposite side climbs up to the plateau of the Croda Sora I Colesei (C).

The via ferrata Tabaretta  is one of the most difficult and impressive in Europe. The via ferrata has many steep passages and not so many resting places. The mountain scenery and the perfect view of the Ortler north face is priceless, which is why this tour is a must.