Klimroutes in de bergen van Zuid-Tirol

Short, very varied and completely secured with a view of Val di Fassa. 

A high mountain climb across the glacier and over the rocks

This two-day trip is recommended only for those with a head for heights (not for sufferers of vertigo), sure-footed, sturdy climbers with experience in glacier and rock-climbing. Under no circumstances should anyone attempt to climb the flat Schwarzwandscharte wind gap without ropes. Right from the outset there are hidden crevasses under the snow, some of which run in the direction of travel. Some sections of the Wilder Pfaff are rated II on the Difficulty Level Scale (UIAA). The gap below the Zuckerhütl summit is very steep and at times smooth and slippery (note: ice axes and crampons are essential). An experienced guide is highly advisable on this high mountain hiking adventure.

Starting point: Timmelsbrücke bridge km 19,7

Endpoint: Timmelsbrücke bridge km 19,7

Refreshment stop: Timmelsalm pasture, Müllerhütte refuge

Short, not particulary difficult climbing path with long rising and falling section in an isolated area. Good orientation skills required. From the car park directly at the lake along the road to the “Riedlhof”, then on the path no. 20 to “Alpe di Pra della Vacca/Kühwiesenhütte” and continue on the path no. 61 and the climbing path until the peak of “Cima dei Colli Alti/Hochalpenkopf”. Walking time: 6 hours Challenge: ** (moderate difficulty)

Suitable for enthusiastic newcomers, a welcoming side event for mountain lovers, exiting for sportive climbers. The via ferrata is of a medium degree of difficulty, starting right after the exit of the  Speikboden gondola at 2.000m. You’ll overcome 350m of difference in altitude belayed and safe. On your first steps out of the gondola you will already get this pure feeling of summits surrounding you. Hold on for the stunning view across Valley Aurina, Zillertal Alps and the white peaks of Durreck. Walk on for the entrance of the via ferrata. Keep the feeling of touching mountains and sky while you step into the via ferrata. Get excited on the super long suspension bridge, get a grip on the edgy rocks of the mountains. You’ll arrive at the very peak of Speikboden. Heading towards a panoramic view you can only here enjoy: Dolomites, Tre Cime and Marmolata towards the glaciers of Valley Aurina. The tour is considered a circular route, for your way back you can either chose the chairlift Sonnklar or hike downwards the alpine paths of the Speikboden recreation area.

It is possible to rent the equipment for the Via Ferrata at the mountain station of the cablecar Speikboden.

Short, steep via ferrata on solid rock with good grip.Easy access and gorgeous panorama.

This Via Ferrata has truely earned the name "Avventura"! Three-rope bridge, Burmabridge, plank bridge or chimes - these are just a few elements that await you on the new Via Ferrata at Speikboden! Beautifully laid out, with many steps and final summit cross, the trail offers a breathtaking view through the Ahrntal valley.

The wonderful adventure Via Ferrata with difficulty B rounds off the wide climbing offer at Speikboden, along with the Via Ferrata Speikboden (B/C) and the Via Ferrata Kids (A).

The starting point is at the Station Speikboden Alm at 2.000m, which can be reached by cablecar. After a 30-minute hike on the forest road in direction to Luttach, you reach the entrance of the Via Ferrata Avventura. A total of 10 sections have to be climbed before reaching the summit cross of the mountain "Kleiner Nock". The tour is designed as a circular route, the return path is on the hiking trail no. 18a, back to the starting point.

Tour details

• Difficulty: B (moderately difficult), min. age 12 years
• Start/finish point: Station Speikboden Alm at 2.000m, reachable by cablecar Speikboden
• Entrance: From the station Speikboden Alm via the forest path A in direction to Luttach, 20 min
• Ascesa: 350 m in altitude, 3 h
• Return path to the station Speikboden Alm: path no. 18a, 1 h
• Time needed in total: min. 3 h 30 min
• Last descent with the cablecar Speikboden: 5:00 pm (in august: 6:00 pm)

Highly recommendable fixed-cable climbing path for experienced via ferrata climbers Starting point: Locatelli/Drei Zinnen Hut

This via ferrata is only suitable for experienced via ferrata climbers who are sure-footed, have a good head for heights and a lot of stamina.

From the Drei Zinnen hut the trail takes towards the “Frankfurter" rock and then enters into the tunnel. At the end of the tunnel the fixed-cable trail takes to the Gamsscharte passage. From there, it goes steeply up to the summit. In the scree around the summit, you have to concentrate on your climbing – there are various places where you could get confused and go wrong. From the summit, returns to the Gamsscharte passage and from there it goes down a few metres in a rocky gully and further on at the wartime trail to the Forgella Paterno/Paternsattel.

The impressive tunnel passages, numerous openings in the rock and an interesting section where you have to crawl, just before the Paternsattel, make this via ferrata extremely exciting and highly recommended, both for its central location in the Sexten Dolomites and for its summit panoramas.

Only walkable if the current weather conditions are good. WARNING: The GPX data may differ from reality. For information your contact is the Alpinschule Sexten Drei Zinnen +39 0474 710375 info@alpinschule-dreizinnen.com

Before departure: check the equipment, the weather conditions and the accessibility

The via ferrata Tabaretta  is one of the most difficult and impressive in Europe. The via ferrata has many steep passages and not so many resting places. The mountain scenery and the perfect view of the Ortler north face is priceless, which is why this tour is a must.

The Sass Rigais is the main summit of the Geisler and with its 3025 m an absolute must for anyone who wants to conquer the pale mountains. Sure-footedness, head for heights, experience in the mountains and the use of a climbing harness are required. 

Approach

From the passo Monte Croce 1.636m

450 m – 1,5 hrs

From the passo, take path no. 124 southwards until you reach Forcella Plan della Biscia (1,942 m) next to Cima Colesei. From there you continue along the old and wide road from the war. A few hundred meters after a prominent curve, you will find a sign and a small stone man. From there you turn left (2.010m) to arrive to the attack of the via ferrata. This climb is not yet well trodden on, but is marked with red dots. It is advisable to wear a helmet in advance, as in the last section you are just below the via ferrata and therefore exposed to a greater risk of falling rocks.

From the Lunelli hut 1.568m

510 m – 1,5 hrs

From the hut you climb up to the Forcella Plan della Biscia (1,942 m) via path no. 171 or alternatively via the wide path no. 155. From there you continue along the old and wide road from the war. A few hundred meters after a prominent curve, you will find a sign and a small stone man. From there you turn left (2.010m) to arrive to the attack of the via ferrata. This climb is not yet well trodden on, but is marked with red dots. It is advisable to wear a helmet in advance, as in the last section you are just below the via ferrata and therefore exposed to a greater risk of falling rocks.

Route description

2,5 hrs – level C/D

The entrance is located in a small rubble chute in which the steel cable begins. The path starts off in the same demanding way (D) and then follows a steep rock pillar (C/D) with quite homogeneous difficulty.

After the first difficult third, it continues in easier terrain (A/B) until you reach the ridge of the Arzalpenturm after a traverse (C) and a steep step (C/D).

Crossing the ridge, one reaches a small saddle next to the actual summit of the Campanile Colesei. Here, there is a one-way regulation. The actual summit of the tower can only be reached with an additional variant. One climbs down from the saddle along the steel cable south (C). Soon one reaches a junction with the variant. If you like, you can climb the Campanile Colesei (C/D) and get back to this point in one round. From the junction, follow the path downwards to a saddle (C) from where the steel cable on the opposite side climbs up to the plateau of the Croda Sora I Colesei (C).

From the Molignon Pass/Grasleitenpass, the road up to the left leads to the Rosengarten Antermoia/Kesselkogel.

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

“Michl” is just waiting for a visit from leisure and beginner climbers. On an easy, B-difficulty course, it can offer a real climbing experience to any visitor with a half-good head for heights. After a little overhang, climbers pull themselves over rock bars that on average remain relatively low. Ideal for practising clicking and changing carabiners. A short hiking route shares the via ferrata in two sections. Small surprise: a stream provides refreshment and a place to rest and let you take in the natural surroundings. And not forgetting your own climbing performance too. After a further climb, at the exit of the via ferrata is one of the loveliest viewing points in the Speikboden area. The little Speikboden lake, a hidden gem, rewards all visitors with a natural spectacle at the conclusion of the climb.

Anyone who has got the bug for more climbing can hike down the mountain to the start of the Speikboden's “Genie in a Bottle” via ferrata. Climbers who have used “Michl” to warm up will manage well on the next via ferrata.

Just below the skywalk you find the training- and family via ferrata “KNOTT”. The access and the descent are short, so the via ferrata is easy to reach. The via ferrata "KNOTT" has one short connector route,
a 20 m long suspended bridge, two steep ladders and four routes. The four routes "Sally", "Turtle", "Affele" and "Rocky" show simple routes, difficult passages, exposed tracks and technical sections.

An approvpriate mountain shoe is required to go through the way, that ends at the Kaserkopf. Reach the Hochalpenkopf across a glade toward sud.

The imposing mountain scenery of the Sella Group, the waterfall, the vertical climbing passages at Exner Tower, a suspension bridge and a mountain lake make the Pisciadù via ferrata
one of the most popular and busiest in the Dolomites. 

The challenging via ferrata has at one point grade D with a protruding stretch. The whole via ferrata is secured by a very taut, thick rope and anchors placed at short gaps.

"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!

Rifugio Lunelli or Passo Monte Croce – Rifugio Berti – Ferrata Zandonella – Croda Rossa peak– Castelliere – Passo Monte Croce or Rifugio Lunelli Description: the first 200 meters of the ferrata with two ladders and fixed rope is very strenuous and exposed. Descent by some exposed passages to the east part is easier. Fantastic rock scenery! The via ferrata is not in good conditions, especially the steel part. Also the distance from one hook to the next hook is too much and there is also danger of falling rocks! Variant: Access trough the Croda Rossa meadows- ¾ way to the Croda Rossa peak- transverse band- “Sentinellascharte”, ca. 200m in descent, on the left is the entrance- ca. 500m saved altitude. Indications: red-white-red with the nr. 101, via ferrata red-green triangles Highlights: the fantastic rock scenery of the Vallon Popera, the steep passages of the ferrata and the panorama from the top. Starting point: Rifugio Lunelli (1568m) – from the Passo Monte Croce towards Padola, before Padola turn right in the Valgrande until the parking place at the rifugio Lunelli. Duration: total 7 ¾ hours, ascent 4 ¾ hours, descent 3 hours Diffrence in altitude: ca. 1400m

Only walkable if the current weather conditions are good. WARNING: The GPX data may differ from reality. For information your contact is the Alpinschule Sexten Drei Zinnen +39 0474 710375 info@alpinschule-dreizinnen.com

Before departure: check the equipment, the weather conditions and the accessibility

The fairly short yet busy via ferrata boasts a magnificent view of the north face of the Sella
Group, the Sassolungo and the Puez plateau.

The Mesules is legendary: it is one of the oldest via ferratas in the Dolomites (1912) as well
as one of the most demanding in the area.

A challenging mountain hike with a stunning view of the surrounding Dolomites. The last part beneath the summit consists of a via ferrata on which belaying with a climbing harness is recommended.

This impressive via ferrata (equipped trail) winds through chimneys and crevices, steep passages and two vertical ladder ascents up to a breathtaking summit in the Sella group. The access to the via ferrata is located near the Kostner mountain hut, at the top station of the Vallon lift. The hut can be reached from Corvara with the Boé gondola or on foot with an ascent from the Campolongo pass.