Klimroutes in de bergen van Zuid-Tirol

The first moments of the morning at the top of a peak, when the shy rays of the sun illuminate the surrounding rocks, making them glow a warm orange-gold colour: breathtaking moments that will remain engraved in your heart forever.
Just outside Colfosco, on the bends of the Gardena pass, you can enjoy the inimitable spectacle of the Dolomite sunrise as you climb the peaks of the Cir group. Of all the possible climbs, that to the summit of the Gran Cir is the least difficult.

The Dolomites, which many people regard as the most beautiful mountains in world, are an awesome challenge that climbers and mountaineers shouldn't miss. Vertical rock faces and steep towers guarantee plenty of climbing challenges. Doubtless, one of the most famous fixed-rope routes in the Dolomites is the Pisciadù via ferrata (also known as the Via Ferrata Tridentina) in the Sella massif. The via ferrata, easily reachable from Colfosco, has some intriguing vertical sections and a suspension bridge.

This via ferrata is only suitable for experienced via ferrata climbers who are sure-footed, have a good head for heights and a lot of stamina.

From the Drei Zinnen hut the trail takes towards the “Frankfurter" rock and then enters into the tunnel. At the end of the tunnel the fixed-cable trail takes to the Gamsscharte passage. From there, it goes steeply up to the summit. In the scree around the summit, you have to concentrate on your climbing – there are various places where you could get confused and go wrong. From the summit, returns to the Gamsscharte passage and from there it goes down a few metres in a rocky gully and further on at the wartime trail to the Forgella Paterno/Paternsattel.

The impressive tunnel passages, numerous openings in the rock and an interesting section where you have to crawl, just before the Paternsattel, make this via ferrata extremely exciting and highly recommended, both for its central location in the Sexten Dolomites and for its summit panoramas.

Technically not very hard, with some difficult spots. Famous for its beautiful scenery and stunning panoramic views.

The outstandingly beautiful Via Ferrata Santner is secured with steel ropes, iron hooks and ladders, it leads you through small gullies and narrow passes, the most challenging of which is the “Ice Gully”, a small gully which is often covered in hard-packed snow even in August. Due to risk of landslides, this route should only be climbed uphill and not downhill. After you leave the Ferrata at the Santnerpass mountain hut, the trail goes on to the refuge Gartlhütte Hut through the valley of Vajolettal and the Tschagerjoch back to the Kölnerhütte Hut.

Once past the metal suspension bridge, the climbing route leads on over ramps up to the “Hoachwool” where you will see the ancient larch wood channels and trenches of the historic irrigation canals. Then you come to an exposed wall which needs good technique and top physical condition. After this difficult part, an easier passage gives wonderful views of nearby, imposing Juval Castle and the lovely surrounding vegetation. Then, on up a ladder to reach the Wandbuch grotto and the final stretch just beneath the Hofl farmhouse. After reaching the top, follow the fence to the right as far as the railings. Then you have a choice of two ways down. If you want to stay high up and have excellent views of the Norderberg, walk on up to the Unterstell cable-car mountain station (20 min.) and take the cable-car back down into the valley or, if you prefer, walk back down along path no. 10 (1 hour) to the Unterstell cable-car car park.

From the festival place the via Molino up, to the forest road. The wood sign “Gummererhof” points us the direction. Starting from the “Gummerhof” moving way nr. 10 to the steep “Weiße Rissen” and the “Kleinen Göller” (water place), left up to the marking T from Termeno, leads into our moving way. Through seal coniferous forest, way nr. 523, further, past at the hunter hut, up to the waterfall, then 20 min. laborious rise to the “Rifugio Oltradige – Überetscher Hütte” (mountain inn).

To reach the peak of Roen from the „Überetscher Hütte“ there exist two variants:
1) for those who are ambitious and doesn’t suffer from vertigo: via ferrata (marking 523), to the peak of Roen (2116m above sea level), then down through meadows (marking 500) to the mountain pasture of Roen, and again to the „Überetscher Hütte“.
2) The marking 10/560 in the northward direction until the mountain pasture of Roen and over the trail (marking 500) to the Roen. The way back to the Passo della Mendola or descend through the „Tauris“ (marking 10A) direct to Tramin.

The Piccolo Cir is a relatively short via ferrata, but not to be underestimated, and is suitable as
a half-day tour. 

The Via Ferrata Maximilian is not technically demanding, although it is unsecured in places over a scree-ridge. Sure-footedness and a head for heights are a must. The Ferrata traverses the entire Rosszahnkamm ridge – from the summit of the Großer Rosszahn to the Roterdspitze – and boasts outstanding views over the Seiser Alm and the peaks of the Dolomites.

The Piz Boé in the Sella group, at a height of 3,152 m, is one of the most accessible peaks over three thousand metres and, for this reason, very popular with hikers.  However, you should bear in mind that the ascent from Corvara and the return to Passo Gardena proposed in this route are of a demanding level: the use of climbing equipment is not compulsory, but sure-footedness and mountain experience are prerequisites for tackling this hike. The route runs mainly on rocky terrain and in places on scree or on an equipped trail, with a panorama that changes as you ascend and beautiful views of the best-known Dolomite peaks such as the Marmolada, Civetta, Catinaccio and Sassolungo. Once you have reached the summit, you will find the small Capanna Piz Fassa hut, where you can stay overnight, but above all, you will be greeted by the fantastic view that only the over 3000 m altitude can offer. On the way back, you will have to cross part of the massif and then descend to Gardena Pass.

An almost vertical chimney makes the beginning of the via ferrata found 3.8 km south of Margreid. This is followed by rock passageways with brackets, wire ropes and iron ladders. A partially exposed hiking trail leads through scrub forest to the last rock passage (summit book). Then follows a short secured route, until the trail merges into a forest path that leads to the first houses of Unterfennberg. After approx. 300 meters on a paved road, a forest path branches off to the left - marking 3 -. On this you reach the meadow and lake of Unterfennberg (1047 m), where there are two restaurants.

 There are two options for the way back: on the "normal way" (signpost 3) to Margreid and from there either by taxi - taxi Boccher Tel. +39 3356142064 - or on foot about ¾ hour to the starting point. Or from Unterfennberg south following the mark 502 B to Aichholz (Roverè della Luna). From the center on asphalt in a northerly direction about 2 km to your starting point.

 Tip: Do not start too late; the rock walls heat up very fast!

The Alpinisteig is a well-maintained mountain climbing trail dating from the First World War which shows just how well constructed these former military trails were. The section between the Elfer- and Sentinellascharte gaps is very icy even in summer, so crampons, pickaxes and ropes are essential.
Starting point: Zsigmondyhütte mountain hut
Map/literature: Tabacco no. 010

Only walkable if the current weather conditions are good. WARNING: The GPX data may differ from reality. For information your contact is the Alpinschule Sexten Drei Zinnen +39 0474 712156 info@alpinschule-dreizinnen.com

before departure: check the equipment, the weather conditions and the accessibility

This very worthwhile but difficult via ferrata leads to beautiful, lofty rock passages to the peak. The via ferrata Croda di Cengles/Tschenglser Hochwand can be reached via the via ferrata as well as via the normal route.

Long but panoramic Alpine tour featuring an easy via ferrata between the Latemar towers. 

This via ferrata is a classic in the Dolomites and is framed by rugged walls and towers with magnificent views. The via ferrata is relatively short with difficult Alpine passages that require Alpine experience.

Beautiful, varied via ferrata in the southern Rosengarten massif with fantastic views of the Dolomites.