Climbing
Badia, Dolomites Region 3 Zinnen
This via ferrata offers a mixture of difficult, exposed areas and walking terrain.
Aim high in South Tyrol’s mountains. Securely attached to rope on one of our climbing routes called "via ferrata", you can reach peaks unattainable for normal hikers and conquer walls otherwise visible only from below. More than 50 vie ferrate run along South Tyrol’s most beautiful peaks, many of which are located in the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In addition to a variety of difficulty levels and excellent sign-posting, the routes are checked on an annual basis to ensure a perfectly safe way to enjoy this form of climbing and the majestic scenery.
This via ferrata is a very long and demanding mountain tour that requires mountain experience, knowledge of the weather and a very good physical condition. The long ribbons, which are well secured in the exposed areas, lead again and again in the lower part to the steep steps that connect the crossings.
"DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" - The project was born out of the idea that the Dolomites should no longer be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. A high-altitude trekking route including 12 „via ferrata“ - each of them unique from alpine or historical points of view. They are interlinking Italy with Austria. The project extends over the areas of the Cadore and the Hochpustertal, area of the Drei Zinnen all the way to the Tiroler Gailtal. "DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS" runs partly along ancient warpaths, trenches and galleries, a "peace path" on former war sites. An Alpine experience for all mountain enthusiasts!
This Via Ferrata has truely earned the name "Avventura"! Three-rope bridge, Burmabridge, plank bridge or chimes - these are just a few elements that await you on the new Via Ferrata at Speikboden! Beautifully laid out, with many steps and final summit cross, the trail offers a breathtaking view through the Ahrntal valley.
The wonderful adventure Via Ferrata with difficulty B rounds off the wide climbing offer at Speikboden, along with the Via Ferrata Speikboden (B/C) and the Via Ferrata Kids (A).
The starting point is at the Station Speikboden Alm at 2.000m, which can be reached by cablecar. After a 30-minute hike on the forest road in direction to Luttach, you reach the entrance of the Via Ferrata Avventura. A total of 10 sections have to be climbed before reaching the summit cross of the mountain "Kleiner Nock". The tour is designed as a circular route, the return path is on the hiking trail no. 18a, back to the starting point.
Tour details
The fairly short yet busy via ferrata boasts a magnificent view of the north face of the Sella
Group, the Sassolungo and the Puez plateau.
The 500 m long climb is perfectly secured with 1000 m of steel cable, is rated at medium difficulty (A - B – in some places B/C) and is suitable for the less strong alpinists or for families with enthusiastic young climbers (14 years and older). An early start, alpine experience and a good overall physical condition is a prerequisite for the ascent of the climbing route. Along the ascent, there is no water and no escape routes. A withdrawal is possible only by down-climbing. The via ferrata is fully secured with a steel cable and no passages have to be dealt with in unsecured terrain or by free climbing. Many steep and difficult sections have been mitigated with steel clamps, which function as steps. Nevertheless, the last part of the via ferrata, the so-called Angel’s edge, presents a very impressive rock passage. The orientation of the via ferrata to the southwest allows for an early ascent of the route, and the climbing season extends well into late autumn (total climbing time: 2-3 hours).
Just below the skywalk you find the training- and family via ferrata “KNOTT”. The access and the descent are short, so the via ferrata is easy to reach. The via ferrata "KNOTT" has one short connector route,
a 20 m long suspended bridge, two steep ladders and four routes. The four routes "Sally", "Turtle", "Affele" and "Rocky" show simple routes, difficult passages, exposed tracks and technical sections.
Rifugio Auronzo – Rifugio Locatelli – Path of the ladders - Torre di Toblin – return Description: repaired via ferrata with a lot of ladders (17 ladders!) and a wonderful round from the top of the Torre di Toblin. Reachable also from the Val Fiscalina or Val Campo di Dentro. Indications: Access and return red triangles, path nr. 101 and 105 Highlights: the ladders and naturally the view to the Three Peaks (Tre Cime) Starting point: Rif. Auronzo (2320m) Duration: total from the Rif. Auronzo 4 ½ hours, ascent 2 ¾ hours, descent 1 ¾ hours Diffrence of altitude: ca. 300m
Only walkable if the current weather conditions are good. WARNING: The GPX data may differ from reality. For information your contact is the Alpinschule Sexten Drei Zinnen +39 0474 710375 info@alpinschule-dreizinnen.com
Before departure: check the equipment, the weather conditions and the accessibility
A nice excursion in the mountains of the Natural Park of Fanes - Sennes - Braies an Pustertal Valley. The tour starts from the path n.20 of from the foresty road n. 20B up to the alpine refuge Brustalm, which is open for you in summer. From here go on on the path n. 20 in direction Franz Josefhöhe until the Kühwiesenkopf. Now an approvpriate mountain shoe is required to go through the way, that ends at the Kaserkopf. Reach the Hochalpenkopf across a glade toward sud.
Once past the metal suspension bridge, the climbing route leads on over ramps up to the “Hoachwool” where you will see the ancient larch wood channels and trenches of the historic irrigation canals. Then you come to an exposed wall which needs good technique and top physical condition. After this difficult part, an easier passage gives wonderful views of nearby, imposing Juval Castle and the lovely surrounding vegetation. Then, on up a ladder to reach the Wandbuch grotto and the final stretch just beneath the Hofl farmhouse. After reaching the top, follow the fence to the right as far as the railings. Then you have a choice of two ways down. If you want to stay high up and have excellent views of the Norderberg, walk on up to the Unterstell cable-car mountain station (20 min.) and take the cable-car back down into the valley or, if you prefer, walk back down along path no. 10 (1 hour) to the Unterstell cable-car car park.
The fixed rope route Roen takes you along the mountain ridge from the Oltradige hut (1,773 m) to the Roen peak (2,116 m). This route features some particularly exposed passages, but is always well equipped and secured. The route leads through the Dolomite peaks and is characterized by breathtaking panoramic view. Equipment and helmets can be rent at the Oltradige hut.
Suitable for enthusiastic newcomers, a welcoming side event for mountain lovers, exiting for sportive climbers. The via ferrata is of a medium degree of difficulty, starting right after the exit of the Speikboden gondola at 2.000m. You’ll overcome 350m of difference in altitude belayed and safe. On your first steps out of the gondola you will already get this pure feeling of summits surrounding you. Hold on for the stunning view across Valley Aurina, Zillertal Alps and the white peaks of Durreck. Walk on for the entrance of the via ferrata. Keep the feeling of touching mountains and sky while you step into the via ferrata. Get excited on the super long suspension bridge, get a grip on the edgy rocks of the mountains. You’ll arrive at the very peak of Speikboden. Heading towards a panoramic view you can only here enjoy: Dolomites, Tre Cime and Marmolata towards the glaciers of Valley Aurina. The tour is considered a circular route, for your way back you can either chose the chairlift Sonnklar or hike downwards the alpine paths of the Speikboden recreation area.
It is possible to rent the equipment for the Via Ferrata at the mountain station of the cablecar Speikboden.
An almost vertical chimney makes the beginning of the via ferrata found 3.8 km south of Margreid. This is followed by rock passageways with brackets, wire ropes and iron ladders. A partially exposed hiking trail leads through scrub forest to the last rock passage (summit book). Then follows a short secured route, until the trail merges into a forest path that leads to the first houses of Unterfennberg. After approx. 300 meters on a paved road, a forest path branches off to the left - marking 3 -. On this you reach the meadow and lake of Unterfennberg (1047 m), where there are two restaurants.
There are two options for the way back: on the "normal way" (signpost 3) to Margreid and from there either by taxi - taxi Boccher Tel. +39 3356142064 - or on foot about ¾ hour to the starting point. Or from Unterfennberg south following the mark 502 B to Aichholz (Roverè della Luna). From the center on asphalt in a northerly direction about 2 km to your starting point.
Tip: Do not start too late; the rock walls heat up very fast!
From the Molignon Pass/Grasleitenpass, the road up to the left leads to the Rosengarten Antermoia/Kesselkogel.
This easy via ferrata, which has a lot of walking terrain between the secured sections (sure-footedness is a must!), is one of the most beautiful in the Dolomites. Along the way from south to north through the Cadini group there are several short counter climbs to be overcome.
The via ferrata „Stuller Wasserfall“ is a medium-difficulty-level climb with a very difficult variation in the middle part, which can be bypassed. This steep and exposed climb proceeds through a breathtaking setting in the immediate vicinity of the roaring waterfall.
The Stuller waterfall is a mighty height of 342 meters consisting of two cascades, and is the third highest in Europe.
About two thirds of the way through the climb there is the possibility to discontinue the ascent and take a footpath to Stuls or descend to Moos. The final section of the via ferrata can also be undertaken as a short journey from Stuls with access via said footpath.
The variants V1(E) and V2(F) are extremely difficult and heavily overhanging in many passages!
The 500 m long climb is perfectly secured with 1000 m of steel cable, is rated at medium difficulty (A - B – in some places B/C) and is suitable for the less strong alpinists or for families with enthusiastic young climbers (14 years and older). An early start, alpine experience and a good overall physical condition is a prerequisite for the ascent of the climbing route. Along the ascent, there is no water and no escape routes. A withdrawal is possible only by down-climbing. The via ferrata is fully secured with a steel cable and no passages have to be dealt with in unsecured terrain or by free climbing. Many steep and difficult sections have been mitigated with steel clamps, which function as steps. Nevertheless, the last part of the via ferrata, the so-called Angel’s edge, presents a very impressive rock passage. The orientation of the via ferrata to the southwest allows for an early ascent of the route, and the climbing season extends well into late autumn (total climbing time: 2-3 hours).
From the passo Monte Croce 1.636m
450 m – 1,5 hrs
From the passo, take path no. 124 southwards until you reach Forcella Plan della Biscia (1,942 m) next to Cima Colesei. From there you continue along the old and wide road from the war. A few hundred meters after a prominent curve, you will find a sign and a small stone man. From there you turn left (2.010m) to arrive to the attack of the via ferrata. This climb is not yet well trodden on, but is marked with red dots. It is advisable to wear a helmet in advance, as in the last section you are just below the via ferrata and therefore exposed to a greater risk of falling rocks.
From the Lunelli hut 1.568m
510 m – 1,5 hrs
From the hut you climb up to the Forcella Plan della Biscia (1,942 m) via path no. 171 or alternatively via the wide path no. 155. From there you continue along the old and wide road from the war. A few hundred meters after a prominent curve, you will find a sign and a small stone man. From there you turn left (2.010m) to arrive to the attack of the via ferrata. This climb is not yet well trodden on, but is marked with red dots. It is advisable to wear a helmet in advance, as in the last section you are just below the via ferrata and therefore exposed to a greater risk of falling rocks.
Route description2,5 hrs – level C/D
The entrance is located in a small rubble chute in which the steel cable begins. The path starts off in the same demanding way (D) and then follows a steep rock pillar (C/D) with quite homogeneous difficulty.
After the first difficult third, it continues in easier terrain (A/B) until you reach the ridge of the Arzalpenturm after a traverse (C) and a steep step (C/D).
Crossing the ridge, one reaches a small saddle next to the actual summit of the Campanile Colesei. Here, there is a one-way regulation. The actual summit of the tower can only be reached with an additional variant. One climbs down from the saddle along the steel cable south (C). Soon one reaches a junction with the variant. If you like, you can climb the Campanile Colesei (C/D) and get back to this point in one round. From the junction, follow the path downwards to a saddle (C) from where the steel cable on the opposite side climbs up to the plateau of the Croda Sora I Colesei (C).
Climbing Route | Sarner Scharte | Sarner Scharte rises to an elevation of 2,468 metres, directly above Val Sarentino/Sarntal Valley | Climb: Sarner Scharte | Starting point: Sarentino/Sarnthein
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