Vinařství v Jižním Tyrolsku

An estate winery also lives from strong personalities. The Castel Juval Unterortl Estate Winery in Castelbello at the entrance to the Val Senales has three at the same time: the king of mountain climbing, Reinhold Messner, is the owner, and Gisela and Martin Aurich run it as tenants. Three heads for one estate winery, so to speak.

While Reinhold Messner most likely needs no further introduction, in the context of his estate winery it is worthwhile to take a closer look at the Aurichs. They have dedicated themselves to wine and distilled spirits since 1992. In the Castel Juval Unterortl Estate Winery, they are responsible for 30,000 bottles that are produced here year after year: Müller Thurgau, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir, whose very particular character is passionately looked after by the Aurichs. As their credo goes, in the end it should be possible to taste the characteristics of the grape variety, the soil, and the microclimate.

Their newest child is a rosé, with the description of which Martin Aurich waxes eloquently, “Our Pinot Noir rosé is salmon-colored, stimulating, and multifacetedly fruity, its flavor is seductively full and lasting,” says the winegrower, who has taken under his wing the production not only of wine, but also of grappa at the Castel Juval Unterortl Estate Distillery.

With Martin and Gisela Aurich, the threads are woven together of the Castel Juval Unterortl Estate Winery and Estate Distillery. In the castle, they are the winegrowers and distillers of the king. The king of mountain climbing, but a king nevertheless.

On a sun-drenched slope in the upper Val Venosta, at over 1000 meters above sea level, lies a vineyard that, according to skeptics, shouldn't even exist: too high, too extreme, in the barren land of the Val Venosta. The agronomist Eduard Bernhart was not discouraged: more than the challenges, it was the potential of the steep slope that struck him. "That slope seemed ideal to me right away," says Bernhart.

From 2018 to 2022, he gradually planted the vineyard with Riesling and Pinot Noir vines. "Both varieties adapt to the shorter growing period at high altitude, as long as the cultural practices are suited to the extreme conditions of the location," explains Bernhart. "The position is unique: the slope is sun-drenched all day, rainfall is scarce, the wind of the Val Venosta keeps the grapes dry, and the large temperature fluctuations between day and night impart a particular aromatic quality."

"At high altitude, the wines turn out crisper and livelier," explains Bernhart. "Freshness, finesse, and elegance emerge more strongly, without sacrificing body and structure." In the end, however, it's not just the altitude that defines Altissimus wines, but also the philosophy of their winemaker: "Drinking a Riesling too young means wasting its potential," says Bernhart. "If a wine has quality, it should be allowed to rest and mature." For Altissimus, at least two years.

In the late 1980s, Franz Pratzner took a risky step. He turned his back on solid fruit growing and transformed his operation to focus completely on wine. He turned an apple farm into the Falkenstein Estate Winery in Naturno.

If Pratzner is asked why he replaced his last apple trees with grapevines in 1989, he make reference to a societal development. “Just like others, I realized at that time that wine had gone from being a routine food accompaniment to a gourmet item and for that reason, other wines were coming into demand than was the case before.” By the age of twenty, he had already made his first own wine and felt the fascination that comes from the profession of being a winegrower. “It has to be more than just a job,” he says. “Only then will challenging wines be successful.”

Today, the Pratzner family of the Falkenstein Estate Winery manages no fewer than 12 hectares of grape growing areas at elevations between 550 and 900 meters which are planted with Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir, but first and foremost Riesling. The entire harvest is made into wine in their own winery – according to Pratzner’s own philosophy: “Wines are like children,” he says. “During their development, they both need support until they are mature enough to assert themselves on their own.”

Thus at the Falkenstein Winery, 90,000 bottles are made every year which are now sold all over the globe and also brought to the table at their own Buschenschank farmhouse inn. So the risky step from fruit to wine has proven to be worthwhile. Especially for the guests.

The Fliederhof ["Lilac Estate"] in Bolzano/Santa Maddalena really ought to be called “Tulpenhof” ["Tulip Estate"]. “Twenty years ago, we planted some tulip bulbs, and now in the springtime, the vineyard below the farmhouse turns into a whole sea of tulips,” recounts Stefan Ramoser. But it doesn’t matter whether it is lilacs or tulips: the Fliederhof in Bolzano/Santa Maddalena does not have any flowers in their product line, but rather produces genuine, natural wines.

In the possession of the Ramoser family since 1930, grape growing areas of three hectares are currently managed, whereby it is nature who sets the tone. “The method of operation and the planning of all production steps both in the vineyard and the winery should not influence the course of things to the greatest degree possible,” says Ramoser.

The vineyards of the Fliederhof in Santa Maddalena have a slope of up to 40 percent, so as a result of the steepness, they can only be tended with a great amount of work by hand. Ramoser is therefore convinced that precise work in the vineyard contributes to success as much as the natural conditions do – soil, rain, wind, and sun, and his own concept of sustainability. Added to that is greenery management that is adapted to the location for the building up of humus, but also the application of compost from their own production.

All of this ought to be tasted in the result: “Wines from the Fliederhof ought to enjoy special drinking pleasure,” says the winegrower Ramoser. “Sincere, natural, and with character, without any special styling that could mask these properties.” And in view of the location, the fact that these wines also include Schiava – Santa Maddalena is a given. Or, as Ramoser puts it, “We view ourselves as a genuine champion of this indigenous grape variety.”

Distillation at the highest level
With fruits and grapes from our own vineyards we produce excellent fruit brandies and grappa. We use only fresh, sun-ripe and healthy fruit. Those are the heart and the abundance of aroma of our noble brandies and grappa. Barrique barrels in our naturalstone cellar hold special distillates up to 2 years, thus they get a pleasant mature and finesse! In our sortiment you will find various fruit brandies, berries brandies, grappa and liquors.

Three generations of vintners – With a passion for wine-making

We are down to earth, but also innovative. We have great respect for Nature, and cultivate grapes only at the appropriate locations. That describes, in a nutshell, the philosophy of the Niklas winery. We view our family heritage as a responsibility to shape and maintain a South Tyrolean wine-growing estate like no other. It embodies the know-how and motivation of three generations of vintners, and is a place where outstanding South Tyrolean red wines typical for their location are created. In the meantime, Dieter Sölva guides the estate’s continued development. Dieter learned the business from his father, Josef, the founder of the Niklas winery, whom he succeeded. Dieter’s son Michael is already adding his unique handwriting to the family business – whose wines are now being marketed throughout the world.

The Kuenhof in Bressanone makes no less than four white wines, each filled with character. The grapes are grown on steep terraces on the slopes of Valle Isarco and vinified in the estate’s historic cellar, which is protected as a historic monument and has roots going back centuries. Eight centuries, in fact.

The Kuenhof in Bressanone was first mentioned in a document in the 12th century. Back then, like so many other Valle Isarco estates, it was owned by the bishop of Bressanone. For approximately 200 years now, however, the Pliger family has run things at the Kuenhof, which has been gradually transformed into a wine-growing estate. The last, most important step in that direction was taken in 1990: ever since then, the Kuenhof grapes have been pressed on-site and the estate wines marketed independently.

All that is made possible by the cultivation area of roughly six hectares. The steep south-east-facing terraces are located at an altitude of 550 to 890 meters. “The climate is rough, but it is virtually ideal for our whites,” explains Peter Pliger, who runs the Kuenhof together with his wife Brigitte and their son Simon. By “our whites,” he is referring to four varieties: Sylvaner, Riesling, Veltliner, and Gewürztraminer.

“It is very important to us that our wines are born from a well-balanced symbiotic relationship between humans, the cultured plant, and nature,” says Pliger. And this credo also includes vinification with natural yeasts, which makes the Kuenhof whites turn out particularly long-lived and digestible. “Long-lived” being the operative word here—considering the estate is 800 years old.

 

The Klosterhof in Caldaro is an estate winery, wine hotel, and small distillery all at the same time. So Oskar Andergassen and his son Hannes exhaust all of the possibilities of what can be done with grapes. And what is just as big is the care with which they look after their raw materials.

For the Andergassens, care means first and foremost respect for nature. And (above all else) in the vineyards that encompass 4.5 hectares, that means to deal with them gently. That also involves low yields which, as a pleasant aftereffect, also drives up the quality of the grapes.
The Klosterhof Estate Winery also continues respect and sustainability in the winery, in which only grapes from their own vineyards are used, where gently means, “We follow the philosophy of a soft pressing and allow the wine a lot of time to mature in large wooden barrels,” explains the son, Hannes Andergassen.

The results of the care and prudence in the Klosterhof Estate Winery are 35,000 bottles per year of DOC quality wines – primarily Schiava, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir. Since 2013, the Andergassens have also been making distilled spirits in their own distillery from the pressings of Pinot Noir and Yellow Muscat, but also from apricots and Williams pears.

The entire palette of what can be made from grapes can best be experienced by a visit to the winery. In so doing, not only do visitors get insight into the method of operation at the Klosterhof, they can also taste the terroir in and around Caldaro and also understand the great passion that the Andergassens have.

“Organic” can be a marketing gimmick, but for Karoline and Patrick Uccelli of the Dornach estate in Salorno, it is a philosophy of life. From Karoline’s education as a biologist through their diet and the – of course! – biodynamic winegrowing up to an agreement that Patrick made with the animals in the woods.

No, don’t worry: Patrick Uccelli is not a Dr. Doolittle, he doesn’t talk with the animals, but he knows about the significance of organic balance which from time to time can even endanger the financial element. “Our grapes seem to taste good to the deer,” Uccelli says, although he has not built any fences against the chewing, but rather, as he explains with a grin, he has struck a deal with the deer: “I won’t do anything to them if they keep out of the vineyards. They apparently understand this.”

And Uccelli, who is both a winegrower and an oenologist, is accustomed to traversing new paths. “I gladly experiment with different vinification methods, with the fermentation in large and small barrels, with different lengths of aging periods,” he says. Along those lines, the goal always remains the same: the production of wines that are as natural as possible.

And the production at the Dornach Estate is widely varied: the wines carry serial numbers on the label to underscore their uniqueness. Crispy wines with earthy, mineral-rich tones that they in fact draw from the soil with a particular composition: yellow and red loam mixed with iron oxide.
Is that the reason why the grapes also taste good to the deer?

Founded in 1960, the Colterenzio winery is one of the youngest winegrowers’ cooperative in Alto Adige. In 1960, 26 winegrowers founded their own winery to be more independent – and named it after the hamlet they came from: Schreckbichl in German, Colterenzio in Italian. These winegrowers can be considered rebels but at the same time pioneers for right after the foundation of their own winery they were setting the course towards quality.

Today, 300 winegrowers together with the people working at Colterenzio continued this path.

The winegrowers grow their grapes on a total of 300 hectares; the vineyards are located in one of the best wine growing areas of Alto Adige, on altitudes from 230 to 650 meters. 14 different varieties are cultivated. 35% of the wines at Colterenzio are red, 65% are white. The Colterenzio winery cares about the environment, not only in the vineyards, but also in the cellar. In the vineyard this means sustainable viticulture and handpicked grapes. In the winery itself most of the electric energy used in the winery is supplied by a photovoltaic installation, 100% of the electric power is certified green and 70% of hot water requirements is provided by solar panels and a heat recovery system.

The Gottardi family from Innsbruck had already made a name for themselves in the world of wine as dealers when, in 1986, they fulfilled a dream: with their own estate winery and grape growing areas in Alto Adige’s Pinot Noir heaven. Thus the Gottardi Estate Winery came into existence in Egna-Mazzon.

But before the Gottardis were able to get the first bottle of their own wine onto the market, a great deal of work was necessary. All of the vineyards were replanted and set up with Guyot trellises. And the winery was also rebuilt. Only in 1995 was it possible to make the first wines, starting out with Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. “But because Pinot Noir enjoys great popularity both nationally and internationally, in 2010 we decided to devote ourselves exclusively to this unique grape variety,” says Alexander Gottardi.

And the conditions for this in Mazzon above Egna are absolutely ideal: sandstone, limestone, and marl soils with long evening sun and cool mountain winds at night prevent the grapes from maturing too quickly. “They also grow rich in finesse and elegance,” Gottardi says with enthusiasm, as he makes his contribution to top-quality Pinot Noirs with a consistent policy of quality. Thus the grapes are harvested by hand and carefully selected.

“From the first year, the grape material has been transported into the winery only with gravity, which is very important since Pinot Noir is very sensitive,” the winegrower explains. His Pinot Noir is first matured in stainless steel tanks and then in small French barrique barrels, and finally allowed to age in the bottle. A lot of work for a place in the Pinot Noir heaven.