Tamara Lunger

Tamara Lunger in her own words

As an extreme mountaineer, Lunger understands what makes her feel most grateful and content. Can you say the same thing?

The entirety of South Tyrol was with her in spirit during her 2015 expedition to Nanga Parbat. The plan was to make a winter ascent. Once again, Tamara Lunger was poised to brake a record. Her intention was to conquer the mightiest giants in the Himalayas, a mountain so big that Europe's highest mountain, Mont Blanc, would fit inside 40 times over.

The amount of work involved in embarking on expeditions to the realm of 8,000 m peaks is staggering: 50 hours to get there then 60 days for acclimatisation, climbing to the various base camps, waiting for favourable weather, living in tents in cramped conditions, monotony, cold, and the risk of falling when going to the open-air toilets. But at the same time, such a journey is also about being immersed in another world, being free from the constraints of everyday life; coming closer to oneself than almost anywhere else, and finding peace.

When giving up is rewarded

Then comes THE big day. Only a few metres of altitude separate base camp 4 from the summit. Tamara follows in the footsteps of her expedition colleagues and sets off into the darkness. It's 34 degrees below zero, and as the wind whistles around her ears at 45 kilometres per hour she realises: today is not my day. Usually quite strong, today she does not feel well. To make matters worse, every step is even more difficult than usual at this altitude. She vomits – over and over again. But she keeps on going, praying that the first rays of sunlight will shine through. Every so often she stops to gather strength for the next step; until suddenly, loud and clear, she hears an inner voice saying to her: "If you keep going now, you'll never make it back."

And yet she is just 70 metres from her objective. At the same time, one thing has become crystal clear: to continue would mean putting the three men in her rope team in danger. At these altitudes, in these conditions, no one can help you. So she turns back. The descent is precipitous and dangerous, and any misstep would be punished severely. Leaping over a crevasse, she slips. She begins to slid downhill rapidly. "This is the end", she thinks to herself, before she is slowed down by a pile of snow that saves her life.

Later that evening in the tent, after congratulating the others on reaching the summit, the frustration and sadness well up. Totally understandable. But then, unexpectedly, these feelings shift into gratitude. She is grateful that she can rely on her inner voice to guide her. A feeling of contentment grows and she is glad that she did not put her fellow climbers in danger. Finally, she is truly ready to celebrate her teammates' success.

IDM Südtirol-Alto Adige/Ivo Corrà

Staying true to yourself

When I meet Tamara near her home village of Gummer/San Valentino in Campo in the Eggental valley, it is pleasantly warm. We sit down on the swings of a playground surrounded by a stunning mountain panorama. It is here, in the very heart of the Dolomites, that she grew up. I have known Tamara for a long time and am always fascinated by the cheerfulness and strength she radiates. Every time I meet her, she leads me to reflect on my own life and to examine whether I am actually doing what suits me and makes me happy.

The harder way

IDM Südtirol-Alto Adige/Ivo Corrà

A key encounter

At the age of 18, Tamara met one of Italy's best mountaineers at her high school ball: the Alpinist and writer Simone Moro from Bergamo. He is the one who took her to the highest mountains in the world. After all, she had the right combination of physique and conditioning. The only thing left to find out was whether Tamara was suited for high altitude climbing after all. Soon it became clear that she was ready for the challenge. Today, she is addicted to adventures at the highest level.

Drawing strength from failure

The duo recognise that their adventures are a privilege, and that failure is an opportunity to learn about oneself and a prerequisite for success. Both speak of having a relationship with the mountains, of a soul that Alpinists enter into a relationship with, of the moment when they fall in love with the mountain, and then can no longer think of anything else. After the first expedition with Moro, one thing became crystal clear to Tamara: "This way of life is much more intense. Even if it ends one day, I can't complain. For I will have lived every day according to my own wishes." This is a sentence that has the power to provoke or inspire, depending on the situation. Either way, how many people can say that about themselves?

Ale d'Emilia

Uncompromising yet simple

Tamara Lunger was one of the world's top ski tourers, before realising in the Himalayas that mountaineering was her true purpose in life. Records and comparisons matter little to her. However, they are a welcome perk and enable her to make a better living from her passion. Not to mention the fact that they attract sponsors. However, the years of intensive demands on her body have left their mark. Time and again, lingering knee pain has forced her to take compulsory breaks. Nevertheless, Tamara has no doubt that she will always find challenges that suit her. And with her helicopter pilot's licence now in hand, she has her sights set on one day becoming a rescue pilot in her beloved Himalayan mountains. For now, many hours of flying still separate her from this dream.

More grateful and satisfied than ever

As the sun slowly sets behind the mountains, I say goodbye to Tamara. On the way back, the words of her inner voice keep repeating in my head: "If you keep going now, you'll never make it back." She was just a few metres away from writing Alpine history. A distance that could mean the difference between being remembered or forgotten.

After meeting with her, I am sure of one thing: despite turning around, she is a winner. And more grateful and satisfied than ever before.

"I'd prefer to summit an 8,000-metre peak by a different route, perhaps in winter when there are fewer people. Or perhaps climb a quieter 5,000- or 6,000-metre peak," she says, formulating her next goals.

ivo corra'fotografo

Text: Barbara Prugger
Translation: Covi, Wurzer & Partner
Photos: Ivo Corrà / Archive Tamara Lunger Video: Miramonte Film and Andreas Pichler
Year of publication: 2017 - Stories from South Tyrol

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